Manfred Felsner is one of the stars of Kremstal, which is one of the better wine producing regions in Austria for white wines made primarily from Gruner Veltliner. Felsner’s vineyards are on the Northern banks of the Danube to the East of Krems in what in many ways can be considered an extension of some of the best bits of Wachau (which for me is the best white wine growing region in the country).
Since 1990 Manfred has worked to bring slopes and old vines back into play while he has reduced yields and intervenes less in the vineyard in the hope producing expressive wines that are varietally true whilst showing off their individual site and regional character too.
The wines produced here are either bottled at Kremstal DAC (Klassik and Reserve) or under the generic Niederosterreich (Lower Austria) region.
Klassik Moosburgerin Gruner Veltliner 2013, Kremstal DAC
Lovely length and concentration, minerally and tight. Fine with some power. 90
Gerlissen Gruner Veltliner 2014, Niederosterreich
Really lovely depth and freshness. Pure with white pepper and baked limed. 89
Reisenthal Gruner Veltliner 2013, Niederosterreich
More mineral and perhaps less open and obviously fruity but has lovely purity and expressive nature. 90
Reserve Rohrendorfer Leiten ‘Alte Reben’ Gruner Veltliner 2013, Kremstal DAC
Really lovely, brightness, rich mouthfeel and tightly wound. Limey and white pepper with lovely concentration and purity. 91
Klassik Gebling Riesling 2013, Kremstal DAC
Lime and mineral but for me this tastes unpleasantly soapy. I think is possibly a disulphide fault? No mark given.