A brilliant Beaujolais from Jean Foillard

Jean Foillard’s Beaujolais is a wine that will split a room I suspect – but for all the right reasons. People looking for a bright, fresh youthful and relatively simple glugger will be disappointed by this wine I suspect – but for wine lovers everywhere this is a stunning wine.

Morgon is the second largest of the ‘Cru’ of Beaujolais – those villages who make a wine named after themselves rather than under the more generic Beaujolais or Beaujolais Villages appellation. These Cru are capable of producing the best quality wines in a range of styles from the lighter more fragrant Fleurie at one end to the fullest bodied, richest style found in Moulin a Vent. Morgan sits close to Moulin a Vent in style and the best wines from Morgon come from the Lieu Dit of the Cote de Py – a slope that is a mix of Schiste and Granite that produces the densest most structured wines in the appellation. These wines defy the thought that Beaujolais should be drunk in their youth requiring 2-3 years before they should even be broached but continue to improve for a number of years after that.

Jean Foillard is one of the finest of all Beaujolais producers, making wines that turn their backs on the commercialism of the big brands and instead focus on truly traditional methods using vines that are old and low yielding, late harvesting to ensure full ripeness, traditional vinification techniques and an overall ‘natural’ approach that avoid the use of synthetic pesticides and fertiliser and uses minimal sulphur.

I tasted this at a large tasting of wines including some smart Burgundy producers and this really stood up to the mark.

Jean Foillard Morgon Cote de Py Vielle Vignes 2012

A profound wine that marries a lovely complex nature, fine structure with depth and complexity, and yet is so incredibly approachable and drinkable. It’s one of those wines at a tasting that you get to it and want to stop, pull up an arm chair, pour yourself a glass and just enjoy it. Bright red cherry fruit, deep and satisfying, it has lovely freshness and good length. This is ‘proper’ wine made drinkable if you like. All the complexity and subtleness you might find on a wine with some age, wrapped up in a youthful shell that bursts onto your palate. I loved it immediately. 92 points.

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