When a lot of wine writers talk about Riesling, they go misty eyed and tell everyone it’s exactly what they ought to be drinking now, rather than Pinot Grigio – a number will also spend a lot of time hoping to re-educate the world on the merits of German wine, (look out for historic mentions of Liebfraumilch, Piesporter, Black Tower and / or Blue Nun).
But frankly that’s a complete waste of time, Pinot Grigio drinkers (I nearly called them lovers, but most of them are lovers of getting tiddly more than the wine itself) are not the sort of people who are going to get turned onto German wines or Riesling – and more to the point – who really cares?
I’ll happily educate customers who want to know, tell them the merits of these wines, I’ll try and get family and friends to try them – but that is entirely selfish – I love these wines and want to drink them with friends and family when we meet rather than the slightly stale Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs or white Burgundies – thought to be fair I tend to drink just Sauvignon with family (some are strict adherents to the ‘anything but Chardonnay’ brigade – their loss) and white Burg with my vinous friends because that is what they know, like and appreciate.
BUT ebough loopy digression – this is – after all – supposed to be about the wine – and a lovely little number it is too. Bright and delicate lime and elderflower, definitely off dry and with a little bit of spritz which really livens up the texture of the wine. This is everything a Mosel Riesling at this level ought to be, elegant and refined, long crisp and fresh – it kind of reminds me of some of those sorbets that get served between courses as palate cleansers, so pure and focussed is it. Then there are the layers, fruit and floral sit pretty on top, hiding the mineral underbelly and the balance between acidity and sugar is so bang on that the wine seems a lot drier than it really is and the acidity doesn’t really stand out at all. OK – it’s not going to winning a whole heap of ‘this is the best Riesling ever made in the Mosel’ awards – but it is absolutely delicious – and anyone stuck in a drinking rut AND wants to get out of it ought to give it a bit of a go.